22 March 2012

The Cure for Burnout - Funky Old Aliens on Dinosaurs!

Planning ahead just isn't my style.

I was on a major roll in January and February.  Painted tons and tons of figures, played a couple of really fun solo games/mini campaigns... figured this would be a great year for me!  So I tried to take it a step further in March... not only would I keep to my goal of "one painted combat unit per week," but I tried to plan which units I'd paint and buy this month.  Yeah, didn't work... I lost interest in those forces.  

So, after some fairly uneventful evenings (seriously... two Micropanzer gun drones are a pitiful tally for three nights' painting), I decided to throw out the schedule.  In fact, I ignored every army in my force and every bit of universe development in my notes.  When in doubt - do something completely different.  So, digging through the lead pile, here's what I found:


These are Orts from the old Asgard range (now sold by 15mm.Co.Uk).  Whenever I order from 15mm.Co.Uk, I make it a point to grab something completely random and different along with my "planned" figures.  No plans for them, no idea how to game with them... just paint them and see what happens.  But it brought my mojo back!  Two short evenings painting yielded a complete skirmish force.


As with most old ranges - they're great poses and castings, but are a bit lacking in variety . So... what to do with these weird little guys?  The large (and protected) craniums and robes seem to imply an advanced, possibly psychic, race with limited numbers.  It's a fun contrast with the dinosaur mounts.  I'm thinking they would work as the command teams for a horde of primitives.  

After poking around a few 15mm fantasy ranges, I found these Eureka Man-Orcs with Crossbows.  



The helmet has the same general shape, and now they kinda remind me of the Mouth Of Sauron from Peter Jackson's Return Of The King.  And the crossbows could easily be modified into some type of arquebus or musket, or even a simple blaster rifle.  

Now it's time to develop their story.  I wonder if these can be worked into an existing storyline, or if I'll just come up with something new for them?  

Cheers,
Chris

16 March 2012

Review: Brigade Models Athena VTOL

Here's another one of those models that has been around for quite some time, but doesn't seem to get the attention it deserves.

I picked up a Brigade Models Athena VTOL during their December sale.  It's nice to see this model is available again - it had been unavailable for some time (probably because the thin parts are quite difficult to cast).  But I'm glad Brigade decided to return it to the lineup, because it is my new favorite 15mm dropship/transport craft.  

The main kit consists of 8 parts: the main fuselage, the main wing, two thrusters, tailpiece, rear hatch, and 3x landing struts.  The parts were cast very cleanly.  No air bubbles on anything, just a little bit of mold lines along the edges of the main wing section.  And there was some slight warpage with one of the vertical tail fins, but it easily bent back to shape under hot water.  I also ordered two different weapon kits: the rocket and gun pods. Since I couldn't choose between the two, I decided to add one of each to my Athena.

This is the largest 15mm aerospace vehicle in my collection.  I decided to use the landing gear because, on my 2' x 2' tabletops, the Athena won't be anything more than terrain or an objective.  If this was to be a game piece on a much larger table, I wouldn't use anything outside of a CorSec Engineering Omni-Stand to safely hold it. Even though the big parts are resin, this is still a very heavy model. 

Assembly and painting were a breeze.  Everything went together with superglue, and it took spray primer without any problems.  Then I sprayed the entire ship with Model Master Euro Gray and used the same color in brush-on to touch up a few missed spots.  I painted the engine components and windows with Vallejo Boltgun, then washed with a coat of Secret Weapon Armor Wash and Secret Weapon Blue Wash respectively.  Then I picked out a few other details in Vallejo Heavy Bluegray, painted the weapons with Vallejo Heavy Brown, and finished and sealed the mini with Wonder Wash Black.


The palette is identical to my Rebel Minis Homeguard (including the Rebel HAMR suits I painted to support them), and a close match for my Laserburn Imperial Scouts.  This, of course, was deliberate.  But it also became apparent that this color scheme was nice and generic - it could work alongside any human force in my collection:


So now I have a good transport ship/shuttle to use in all kinds of games.  I tested it out using the USE ME  Terminus: Planetfall scenario on Barking Irons.  I'll post that battle report soon on Dropship Horizon.


Cheers,
Chris

13 March 2012

Electrical Box Buildings from Micropanzer

In addition to his great range of 15mm figures, Jason over at Micropanzer Wargame Studio has been selling painted buildings made from plastic electrical boxes.  You can see what's available on this page.  I had my eye on his first few sets, but none of them really "jumped" out at me.  On his next update, I saw a set of four buildings painted in a dark red color.


I couldn't resist!  I thought they'd look great on my Red Planet terrain table, and this set didn't disappoint me.  These single-story buildings look like part of an established colony - these are permanent structures rather than early shanties or pre-fabs, but they haven't developed into a complete city just yet.  So they are perfect settlements for disputed territories on colonized worlds, or even for a bustling small-skirmish spaceport or lab complex.


And, just for the sake of curiosity, I wondered how these would look on my other gaming tables.  They didn't offer much for my desert table (especially since I have a full set of The Scene desert buildings), but they are very nice with my snow terrain.


The snow terrain hasn't seen much play, simply because I never managed to finish painting my Critical Mass Games ARC Fleet refinery set.  These will get me by for now.  I may even buy some of his gray-colored buildings for the snow table, or just to add some variety to the settlement.

Cheers,
Chris

29 February 2012

February Wrap-Up and Looking Ahead

Another successful month at the Bunker!  My stated goal for the year has been "one combat unit painted every week."  I exceeded the goal in January, and had no problem meeting it in February.  And I managed to finish a few new terrain projects, just to help move things along.

The completed list for February 2012:

  • Two more of my resin modular buildings painted to match my Rebel Minis Droptroopers.  

  • A junk-built communications transceiver for those buildings.
  • 72" of 3" wide hardboard road sections (6" and 12" lengths)
  • Two more Rebel Minis Titan HAMR suits.
  • Another unit of four Rebel Minis Droptroopers and a Wild CAT 'bot for my Christmas War campaign.
  • Three GZG Cyclops Battlesuits - repainted to match my Eureka Ventaurans.
  • Two Rebel VIPER Walkers.  A third was stripped and needs to be repainted.
  • A paint test figure of RAFM Planetary Militia.  
  • Six Critical Mass Games Kaamados Dominion Vivipara infantry.
  • One Critical Mass Games Kaamados Dominion Draco Aganath Imperator battlesuit.
  • And finally, three more Rebel Minis Earthforce HAMR suits.  My first mecha army is ready for some test games!


Here's my tentative painting agenda for March:
  • Proxie Models buildings.  I have about a dozen ready to be assembled, based, and drybrushed.  That will give me the ruined urban battlefield desired for my mecha games.
  • Paint two light walkers and one heavy walker for my GZG Crusties.
  • Paint another Ravenstar Silverback mech.
  • Start work on my next mecha-based army:
    • A unit of Micropanzer Russian Walkers
    • RAFM "Buckethead" Infantry with Micropanzer Remote Gun Drones
    • Brigade Models South African Wheeled MBT
    • Matchbox Armored Transports as APCs
  • Repaint my other three GZG Cyclops Battlesuits to match my Eureka Ventaurans.
And the high priority items on my shopping and wish list:
  • GZG Colonial Militia to support Blue Moon Orion Republic troopers for my Dominion Invasion game setting.
  • More Critical Mass Kaamados Vivipara and Draco Agonath suits (for the same setting)
  • ArtCrime Productions Assault Valkyries and Nationalist Infantry.  The Assault Valkyries will be for the Dominion Invasion setting, and the Nationalist Infantry are going to be multi-based to support the above Rebel HAMRs and Ravenstar Thunderfoot.
  • More Rebel Minis VIPER walkers and Drop Trooper Heavy Weapons (when released).
Cheers,
Chris

27 February 2012

The Cautionary Tale of the Heavy Black Wash

I painted my first three Rebel Minis VIPER Mecha this past week.  Well, almost.  Sometimes I'm quite successful when I try new paint techniques.  Other times the results are disastrous.  This was one of those times.

The VIPERS were purchased to support my existing Rebel Drop Troopers and CAT 'Bots.  Those were painted with the famous green-wash-over-bare-metal technique, producing a metallic green finish:



The plan for the VIPERs was to use the same technique.  But Rebel Mike did something I wasn't anticipating - he released them in resin!  On the plus side, the VIPERs are the least expensive 1/100 mecha available, and come with a huge variety of really nice weapons.  On the down side - I needed to find a way to match these resin mecha to my existing figures.

I've had some luck using wash over metallic silver paint (like these GZG Cyclops Suits).  It produces roughly the same effect as bare metal - maybe a little cleaner in appearance.  But the VIPERs are larger minis.  Would that same technique work?  I've had zero luck using that same technique on larger models like terrain pieces.  So, a trip to the friendly local hobby store was in order.

My four-year-old actually found it before I did - Model Master Dark Green Pearl.  It looked just fine in the bottle, but that's never a good indication.  So I tried a little bit on one corner of a VIPER suit.  It was pretty transparent.  I ended up putting two coats over the whole thing, then started picking out the other details with the same Vallejo Heavy Bluegray and Gold paints as the infantry.  It still didn't look right to me.  So, instead of the nice and thin Wonder Wash that I used on the infantry, I tried to use Secret Weapon Heavy Black Wash.

Big mistake.  

The Secret Weapon wash was far too heavy for this application.  The green finish was bad, and it pretty much blacked out the bluegray on the weapons.  I also noticed that the gold on the canopy was too thick - it had actually created "chunks" of paint on the panels.  Then I took a closer look at the Model Master Green bottle, and noticed one of the problems.  All the metal flake had settled to the bottom.  No wonder it had seemed so translucent!  I scraped the bottom of the bottle with a popsicle stick, shook the hell out of it, and then applied a single coat to a second VIPER. 

It worked much better that time.  I finished that second VIPER using the same techniques as the infantry and 'Bots - bluegray weapons, gold (thinned this time) on the canopy, and Wonder Wash black over the whole model.

Here's the comparison:


The difference isn't an effect of shadow or camera placement.  This is pretty close to how they each look in person.  Suffice it to say - the left VIPER is currently sitting in a bath of Simple Green cleaner and waiting to be stripped.  The second one, on the other hand, is a very good fit with the existing figures:


Not perfect, but good enough for my game table. And the best news?  Painting that second VIPER only took about 30 minutes.  I'll easily get the third one finished, and then order another set or two from Rebel Minis.  They are very nice mecha, and the price is just unbeatable!

Cheers,
Chris

20 February 2012

You've been reassigned!

I'm revisiting some of the first 15mm minis I ever painted this week: three packs of GZG Cyclops Battlesuits to go with my Rebel Minis Titan Marines.


They fit well in my original vision for that army (Conquest Development Center corporate research/security forces).  But that army has evolved in different directions now - the role of the Cyclops battlesuits has now been divided among Kremlin Red Banner MANITOU power armor and Rebel Minis Earthforce HAMR suits as heavy support mecha.  Next thing I know... the Cyclops suits, which I really think are great minis, haven't been touched in well over a year.

Time to find them a new home.

I've been slowly building up forces to play 15mm mecha games.  The rules I've been knocking together for those games (more on this later) center around multi-based infantry supporting formations of mecha.  My Eureka Ventaurans are already based for just that type of game:


But don't yet have any mecha units.  I ordered a Micropanzer Valkyur mecha last week as a trial, and later realized that the GZG Cyclops Suits would be a great match.  So I popped one off its old base, mounted it to a 1.25" fendeer washer, painted over the entire thing with Vallejo Boltgun, and gave it the same purple wash/blue-gray and gold details as my Ventaurans.


I like it.  It won't take much time to do the other five suits.  Have I mentioned that the lazy painter in me really, REALLY likes wash-over-metal paint schemes?  And despite its simplicity, I still think it looks as game-worthy as the original paint job.


Cheers,
Chris

09 February 2012

Tutorial: Battlefield Wrecks from Die-Cast Toys

Here's a fun little terrain piece that I worked on between some actual painting projects.  I made a Cobra Hiss-inspired assault vehicle out of a few Hot Wheels late last year.  One of the toys I used was the Assault Crawler:


Specifically, I used the tracks and never touched the body.  I found that hollow body recently while working on another project, and inspiration hit me.  The body wouldn't look out of place on a hover or grav platform.  But instead of converting or sculpting something onto it, why not turn it into a wreck?

I sliced up the body with a Dremel tool and cutting wheel.  The die-cast steel is too thick to do any real damage, but a few quick slices around the driver's seat worked fine.  Then I mounted the wreck to a scrap of MDF hardboard, built up the edges with sand, and hit it with a black undercoat.  


I decided to use a pretty basic palette on this one.  I painted the base with medium gray craft paint and drybrushed Vallejo Heavy Grey (actually a green-grey) onto the body.  Then I drybrushed Vallejo gunmetal in a few "damaged" areas.


This looked like it belonged in a ruined city, or somewhere in a dark ash waste.  So I added my usual "gray gravel" blend to the base and hit the joints and Gunmetal areas with rust-colored weathering powder.


Project finished!  A fine bit of cover for infantry or a light walker, or possibly an objective to search for unclaimed ammunition or other parts that will be desperately needed in post-apocalyptic settings.  I'll have to keep my eyes open next time I'm looking at $1 die-casts... even if I can't use the complete vehicle, I could always use more of these wrecks for my ruined battlefields.

Cheers,
Chris

03 February 2012

January wrap-up & projects for February

My goal for the year was to paint at least one combat unit (infantry squad or vehicle) per week.  If I can keep January's pace going, I should exceed my goal.  

Completed in January:



I plan to focus most of my February painting (and gaming, hopefully) on mecha-centric battles.  I have four more mecha basecoated now - two each Rebel Minis Earthforce and Titan HAMR suits.  Those should be finished early next week.  I have an order of Rebel Minis VIPR suits on the way, and I plan to take advantage of the Ravenstar Studios 25% Off Sale and pick up a couple more Land Core Silverbacks.

The urban battlefield I mentioned before is also on the February project list.  I ordered an assortment of nine buildings from Proxie Models last night, and I cut 6' worth of hardboard road sections to set up the battlefield.  I just need to come up with some urban terrain pieces that aren't buildings (maybe a power plant?) to complete my mecha battlefield.  

Cheers,
Chris

28 January 2012

Rebel Minis HAMR - converted and painted

My 15mm Mecha Battles project is starting to come together.  

After it sat on my shelf for months, I finally completed this Rebel Minis Earthforce HAMR Support Suit:  
  

This one had just the slightest bit of conversion work before I painted.  I ended up cutting the barrels off the included gatling guns... they worked well on the Earthforce aircraft, but I wanted something a little heavier on this mech.  I looked at a few Combat Wombat brass barrels, but ended up using the barrels from some spare Rebel Titan HAMR support guns.


I think this mech works really well alongside my Ravenstar Studios Thunderfoot (and Rebel Titan Marines and Kremlin MANITOU suits).  The HAMR is going to be the support option in a three-mecha platoon.  Work has begun on the other two - they are going to use the more conventional arms and rifles off the Earthforce Recon HAMR sprue.  That will give me two core combat units for my first mecha army: the platoon of HAMR suits, and the Thunderfoot - which is a mecha platoon in itself.

Cheers,
Chris

27 January 2012

Growing a Skirmish Force into a Full Army

One of the greatest strengths in 15mm Sci Fi: it can be used for games of every size.

At its heart, 15mm is still a battle scale.  But in the last few years, it has grown by leaps and bounds as an option for small (5-10 figures per side) narrative skirmishes.  For awhile, I tried to separate my "skirmish" forces from my "armies."  I've realized this just isn't necessary - a skirmish team might be a great elite unit in a larger force.  So I started matching character figures and elite units to my larger armies.  This month I did just the opposite - took a skirmish force and expanded it into a full-sized army.


These Laserburn Redemptionists were my first few Shadow World figures - featured in the Blasters & Bulkheads article series on Dropship Horizon.  In the still-unfinished background, these represent the elite semi-religious warriors from the Shadow Worlds - a distant region of the galaxy feared for its study and use of mysterious alien artifacts.  I envisioned these figures to be part of an elite inner circle - basically taking the role of the Sith of my unnamed space opera setting.  

A few months went by.  I picked up a ton of goodies from Ravenstar Studios' new Land Core 15mm range.  I was mainly interested in the mecha, but the Stalker walker tank really grew on me.  I was lost for a paint scheme until I saw the Shadow Worlders sitting on my shelf.  Then it hit me... if these guys are the "not-Galactic Empire" in my own universe, why not give them a "not AT-AT" for their vehicles?  In Star Wars, the AT-AT is as much a weapon of terror as it is an armored tank/transport.  The Stalker looked very intimidating when sitting next to my Old Crow, Rebel, and Combat Wombat tanks.  Not a proxy AT-AT, but something that fills the same role and creatively uses the same core idea.  So I tried giving it a similar paint scheme to my earlier figures.


The results?  Well, the colors are bit over-the-top, even by my standards.  The two tone look is pretty cheesy - it might have worked better with just the purple or just the blue-gray.  Or maybe I should have used a camo pattern that incorporated both colors.  But you know what?  It grew on me after a few days, so I decided to develop the army further and see what happened.  The next step, now that I had chosen my vehicles, was to get more boots on the ground.

I still had plenty of unpainted Redemptionist figures... but I really like using them in the role of the elite inner guard.  So what should I use for the Shadow Worlds' rank-and-file infantry?  A look through the lead pile (which had grown after my GZG Christmas order arrived) presented a pretty good option: Islamic Federation infantry with helmets. 


These are great old figures.  Their helmet and weapons work anywhere from near-future to retro pulp to space opera.  And they are ideal cannon fodder for the Redemptionists - very little armor and not a lot of special equipment.  I thought they mixed together quite nicely.


I painted two packs of Islamic Federation infantry.  I'll organize them into teams of eight (just as they came), which can break down into teams of four (the squad support weapon in one team, the heavy weapon in the other).  Combined with the Redemptionists and the Stalker tank, I now have a core army to use in larger one-off games.  Or blend both types of games in a campaign - use the Redemptionists alone in special missions, and then the full army for direct conflicts.  


This is pretty much all the figures I'll need, though a third pack of Islamic Federation isn't out of the question. But a higher priority is adding a second Stalker tank, and then grabbing three Stalker-variant APCs once Ravenstar makes them available.  I just need to decide if I'm going to pain that second Stalker in the same color scheme as the first, or try something a bit less... extravagant.  

Cheers,
Chris

19 January 2012

Gonna need more cocktail sauce...

Thanks to my big Ground Zero Games Christmas order, I now have some much-needed reinforcements for my Crusties army.  I grabbed one of the heavy walker, a two-pack of the light walkers, and a pack of the new armored infantry.


I went back and forth a few times about how to paint them.  I used P3 Cryx Bane Highlight as the main weapon color for my previous Crusties, with the occasional Vallejo Heavy Red detail.  


Since the armored Crusties didn't seem to have any skin (shell?) exposed, the gray and dark red seemed like the obvious color choices.  But then I was afraid they'd be too close of a match for a recently-painted Ravenstar Silverback mecha, which are Vallejo Gory Red with a few P3 Cryx Bane Highlight details.  I second guessed my colors even more after I saw (and fell in love with) the bright orange scheme featured on Gunner's Wargaming.  But ultimately I decided to go with the Cryx Bane as a base color and limit the Heavy Red to the weapons and backpacks.  It wasn't bad, but needed another color.  I ended up using Vallejo Goblin Green on the weapon "fins," some small details on the backpacks, and on the helmet lenses.  A quick touch of black Wonder Wash and some base texture completed the figures.



I'm not convinced the green details are bright enough. I might get something brighter (Vallejo Fluorescent Green maybe) and touch them up later.  But they are ready for the game table, and match pretty well with my earlier Crusty infantry.


More importantly, this palette should work fine on the Crusty walkers.  But I swear... Next time I make a new army -  I really need to make sure I stop using the same few base colors. :)

Cheers,
Chris

15 January 2012

2012 Painting Log - mid-January update

As a way to keep focused on my "one finished combat unit per week" goal for 2012, I'm going to try to update my painting progress a couple times per month.  Since the first of the year, I've finished:

  • Khurasan Space Demons - a pack of Warriors, a pack of Nymphs, and a Colossus.
  • Laserburn Scouts - two Bikes and eight Scout figures
  • Assorted Ravenstar Land-Core goodies - a Thunderfoot and a Silverback mecha (painted for the review article on Dropship Horizon), a Coyote jeep, and a Stalker walker tank.  Here's a teaser pic of the mecha:

Not a bad start to the year - I'm ahead of my goal.  But I did have some time off work around the holidays, so a head start isn't going to hurt anything.  Looking ahead... my Christmas order from Ground Zero Games arrived on Friday.  Here's what's on the table from that shipment:
  • A pack of Hammer's Slammers infantry.  I'm going to ignore the buzzbomb-launcher figure for now and focus on the other sculpts.  I intend to use these as bailed-out vehicle crews for my Aurora Group corporate security forces.
  • Two packs of Islamic Federation infantry.  My plan is to use these as the core of a new army - one based upon my Shadow Worlder Blasters & Bulkheads skirmish force.  The skirmish unit (made of Laserburn Redemptionists) will be the elite inner circle of Shadow World armies - these Islamic Federation troopers will be the rank and file.  I'll use Ravenstar Studios' quad-walkers as the vehicles in this new army.
  • A pack of Armored Crusties.  For my Crusties, obviously. :)
  • Four packs of New Israeli infantry.  No fancy plans here - I'm just going to turn them into red Spartans to rival for my green Rebel Droptroopers.
I'll splash in a few terrain projects along the way, just to keep things interesting.  And the odd civilian and mercenary figure to flesh out my small skirmish games.  

Cheers,
Chris

12 January 2012

Painting Tutorial - Khurasan Space Demons using Metallic Sprays

One of this year's stocking stuffers from my wife was a small order from Khurasan Minis.  There were a few new items inside (including some Control Battalion that I'm dying to paint), but mostly it was reinforcements for my Space Demon army.  I already had two packs of Assault Warriors, one pack of Hammerheads, and a Queen.  This order gave me a pack of the second-pose Assault Warriors, a pack of Nymphs, and for my larger games, my first Colossus.

Since we're having a very warm winter here in Iowa, I broke out the Testors Metallic sprays and got my new bugs onto the battlefield.  Just like my previous Space Demons, I'm using the ultra-quick paint scheme pioneered by Cacique Caribe over on TMP.  Here's a breakdown of the process.

Step One - File, Assemble, and Base


As usual, Khurasan's minis require very little cleanup.  The Nymphs just needed a bit of filing on the bottom, and the Colossus went together quickly.  I spent a bit more time on the Assault Warriors.  One of the poses has a cast base which is larger than my 3/4" fender washers, so it needed a bit of trimming.  I also took a little time to make sure the heads went on at a few different angles, and I reposed the soft tails to add some variety.



Step Two - Undercoat

Honestly, this step is optional.  But I've found that it does help to get an even coat out of the metallic sprays, so I used my white Armory Primer on the figures.  It also helps me to find any small bits of flash or mold lines that I missed the first time around (in this case, there was just a little bit of flash in the armpits of a few Assault Warriors). It also helped to seal the Colossus together - my superglue was old, and the legs kept falling off when I first assembled it.


Step Three - Metallics

The fun part - giving some life and distinction to the Space Demons without any real effort.  When I painted my last batch, I used Testors Arctic Blue for the Hammerheads, Burgundy Red for the Queen, and Turquoise for the Assault Warriors.  I wanted the Nymphs to be "extensions" of the Queen herself, so they received the burgundy paint. The Colossus has some little recesses in the shoulder that could be some type of acid spray, so I tied it together with the Hammerheads.  

A note on the metallics: I learned that they have a much longer drying time than other Testors or Tamiya sprays.

Step Four - Wash

Once the sprays were dry, I set the figures out on some Universal Painting Trays (those mockup credit cards that keep showing up in my  mailbox) and, working in groups of six, brushed an undiluted wash over the entire figure.  I used GW Badab Black on my earlier models, but this time I used Secret Weapon Heavy Body Black.  The Secret Weapon washes are very good for this sort of work, as long as you remember to keep shaking them.  The Heavy Black is also a bit stronger than the GW wash - it only took a single coat to finish the Nymphs and Assault Warriors.  The Colossus took a few coats to get all the recesses on the belly, so I worked on the Nymph and Warrior bases while the larger model was drying.  

Step Five - Base and Seal


Nothing fancy on the bases - painted Model Master Euro Gray onto the bases, flocked them with dark gray gravel, sealed with thinned Elmer's glue, and drybrushed with Vallejo Heavy Bluegray.  The figures themselves were sealed with Wonder Wash Black, which gave them a nice and glossy finish.  

That's it - a quick, painless, and fairly inexpensive way to make a Space Demon army.  There are plenty of colored metallics on the Model Master brush-on range, if you don't want to spent the extra cash on spray paints.  And the army would work just fine with a single color - I just like seeing the difference between an Assault Warrior and a Hammerhead from tabletop distance. 

Play a game already!

I've played a couple quick FUBAR games with the Nymphs and Assault Warriors since painting these.  But I still haven't used the Colossus in a game.  I plan to run a scenario where a Colossus is hiding underground and ambushes a passing convoy.  When the convoy is stopped, other Space Demons will converge on the damaged vehicles, and the convoy personnel must hold out for extraction.

So what's next for my Space Demons?  Well, I really like the Nymphs - perfect little swarming bugs.  I thought about mounting three per 1.25" base, but singles on 3/4" washers will work better on my Space Base tiles.  I might try to add one to my Queen's base, just for decoration. 


The Colossus is a terrific mini.  A second one would make my Space Demons into a pretty formidable opponent, even against tanks and mecha.  

04 January 2012

An "instant" Special Forces patrol

I have a simple hobby goal for 2012: paint one unit per week.

Okay... Obviously  I have more goals than that.  But we all have to start somewhere.  Especially when the lead pile is already  taller than I'd like, and I still have three Christmas orders that haven't arrived.  Hopefully this goal will help me get through the pile just a little bit quicker.

My lead pile featuers tons of small potential forces (1-2 squads at the most), mostly because I like buying a pack or two at a time to see how much I like the sculpts.  In one corner of my storage container, I noticed some of the old Laserburn Imperial Scouts from 15mm.Co.Uk.  They are pretty detailed, but I went with the ol' "wash over bare metal" approach.


Works for me!  Now that they are painted, I see these are really great old minis.  Too bad there aren't more poses available.  But this still works for just a couple odd fire teams, or would be fine if they were based 2-3 per stand for Alien Squad Leader or Valkyrie.  The recipe for painting them was pretty straightforward:
  1. Two coats of Secret Weapon Blue Wash
  2. Vallejo Heavy Bluegrey on the weapons and backpacks
  3. Vallejo Bronze over the visors
  4. Model Master Euro Gray base with two colors of railroad ballast
When I bought these minis, I ended up with four of the standard Scout (which, I believe, is armed with what Laserburn calls a Heavy Laser Rifle?), two with Launchers, and two with Conversion Beamers.  The visual difference between the launcher and rifle is pretty limited, so I painted them the same color.  I may not even give them different stats in a larger game.  I ended up repainting the Conversion Beamers with Vallejo Heavy Brown to make them stand out a bit.  I could easily do the same with the launchers, if I end up wanting them to have different stats in the majority of my games.


I also picked up two of the Scout Bikers with the order.  I really like these - and they would also be ideal as Light Vehicles in Alien Squad Leader, or as an alternative to the Bulldog Jetbikes in Valkyrie.  I also noticed that these are clearly what inspired the old plastic Epic Imperial bikes.  15mm.Co.Uk does offer a version of the bike without the rider.  It would be pretty cool to have eight complete Bikes, and eight riderless ones to go with my eight dismounted Scouts.  I'll definitely add more bikes to my next order.


The bikes are basecoated with the same Model Master Euro Gray as the bases.  I may go back over the bikes with solid black, then lightly drybrush with the gray and repaint the lighter details.  Or I may try a brownish wash (something like Secret Weapon Sewer Water) over the base to see if that adds some contrast.

Either way, a few hours' work provided some nice upper-tech troops.  These could be used on their own in a small skirmish game, or be added to a lower tech force as special operators.  I deliberately painted them in colors that will match my Rebel Minis Homeguard and HAMR suits, just to add a bit of flexibility.


Cheers,
Chris